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Rear Squeaking Noise

12K views 12 replies 5 participants last post by  99BlackDak  
#1 ·
I have a 99 Dodge Dakota Regualr cab with the 3.9. I've noticed for a while now that there is a squeaking noise coming from the rear. Usually when I'm reversing or when I get on it alittle bit go forwards. Some people I know said that it is my wheel bearings but then other people are saying that its my universal joints. Anyone else have this problem or know what my problem is??


Later
Will
 
#5 ·
I notice the squeaking when I come from a stop or striahgt from park and start to take off. It's almost like a whining noise. It gets louder and faster as I get up to speed. Once I get over 25 or so you cant hear it anymore. Also, when I come from a stop or from park when reversing.
 
#6 · (Edited)
I've got the same problem. Started squeaking about 40k ago, only in reverse, went away at higher speeds. Now squeaks all of the time and getting quite loud. Sounds like a rubbery-metal-circular squeak. Does not squeak when rolling in neutral. Gonna change the u-joints & rear shocks tomorrow. Changed rear-end fluid, rear shoes, clutch assm. with no improvement.

I've also got a loose driveline, you know, like bad u-joints. But it's gotten looooonnnnger -- clunk than just joints, so might be tranny or rear. That started abt same time as squeak and may be related.

Of course, none of that has been helped by the recent sputtering and bucking caused by some timing issue. Refer to: 'truck way sick' posted by kitcar, which is extremely dead nuts similar.

Love my Dodge :D
 
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#7 ·
I'm fixed

OK, I am fixed, no more squeak or clunk. My U-joints were in terrible shape, three cups were broken and missing needle bearings. Three new u-joints later (I always need an extra spark plug too :) ) and she runs like a champ.
 
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#11 · (Edited)
Does your squeak have a rubbery sound to it? U-joints have a rubber dust cap, bearings don't. As bad as my ujoints were, I could never tell it by physically checking them on the truck, YMMV. Also, it's a given the ujoints will go bad, no way to grease them and they are exposed to the elements. A lot cheaper to replace ujoints as a tshooting step.

I highly recommend purchasing a hydraulic press for the job. I got a 12 ton el cheapo chinese one for $99. It made removing the u-joints sooooo simple. I didn't price the cost of having this done professionally, so it may be cheaper if you don't need a press around for other jobs. I personally have an odd job now and then that it's really nice to have the press for. You could possibly make a press with a heavy duty c-clamp and some sockets. Autozone has a free-rental ball joint press that might work. Otherwise a sledge hammer and a lot of cussing.

I jacked up the truck frame, for easier access, from the rear end using my tow hitch as support. Put a dab of paint on each piece to key the shaft. Took loose the four bolts going to the rear. Pried the shaft forward from the rear. It dropped, pulled it out from the trans, lost two tbsp. of tranny fluid.

Remove the ujoint retainers with screwdriver and pliers. The press has a plunger that was just the right size to push the whole ujoint through. The cap on the far end would break, so I turned it around to push it out the other direction and it would be free to remove. I used a 1-1/8" socket to press into, no damage.

You tap the new caps back in from the outside of yoke. You have to put the joint, sans caps, in yoke first and hold it into the cap while tapping it in to prevent the needle bearings from falling out. Tap it in all the way and put in a new retaining clip. Repeat, repeat, repeat.... Grease them up good and hit them again with every oil change.

Tapping the caps in is a real pain in the @ss. I dropped one of the caps and lost the needle bearings <sigh>, so had to get another joint. Might wanna buy three to be safe and take unused one back.
 
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#12 ·
I take it that the reg cabs have a 1 piece drive shaft and not a two piece... my roomate went to a driveshaft shop and to get all 3 ujoints (2-piece driveshaft) done including parts was about $90, so for two it should only be about $60. You will have to pull your own driveshaft and bring it to them...
 
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